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Zucchini Gratin with Marjoram, Wild Fennel, and Parsley
Zucchini, by Harry Stooshinoff. Recipe below: Zucchini Gratin with Marjoram, Wild Fennel, and Parsley Here’s a nice thing to eat while recuperating from a bout of summertime Lyme disease, as I am...
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How I Make Pesto
Still Life with Mortar and Pestle, by Steve Capper. Recipes below: Pesto with Parsley, Marjoram, and Walnuts; Pesto with Mint, Almonds, and Pecorino Romano A mortar and pestle is a beautiful thing. If...
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Eggplant Antipasto with Crème Fraîche and Thyme
Still Life with Eggplant, by Henri Matisse. Recipe below: Eggplant Antipasto with Crème Fraîche and Thyme The first New York–grown eggplants have arrived at my Greenmarket. What a fine time this always...
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Tomatoes, Ricotta Salata, and Purslane with a Tomato Marjoram Vinaigrette
Still Life with Tomatoes, by Peter Nahum. Recipe below: Tomatoes, Ricotta Salata, and Purslane with a Tomato Marjoram Vinaigrette This is the first year I’ve grown tomatoes all by myself. I used to...
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Ciambotta with Summer Herbs
The Villa Oplontis, in Torre Annunziata, Campania. Recipe below: Ciambotta with Summer Herbs I didn’t come from a religious family. I came from a vague one. I don’t believe my parents thought it...
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Harissa, Fresh and Hot
My Carolina reapers, coming in fast and furious. Recipe below: Harissa, Fresh and Hot Due to circumstances beyond my control, I’m now growing the hottest chili known to man. My brother, Richie, a...
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Pesto alla Trapanese, and a Tableside Chat with My Dad
Still Life of an Italian Kitchen, by Perry Milou. Recipe below: My Pasta alla Trapanese Often when I’m in the kitchen cooking alone, imaginary conversations flow through my head. Sometimes they’re with...
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Lemon Verbena Cake with Olive oil
Woman in the Garden, by Gabriele Münter. Recipe below: Lemon Verbena Olive Oil Cake Every year around mid-September a lump settles in my throat. Agita with a big dose of reflux. It’s my body telling me...
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Fettuccine with Red Pepper Purée, Chickpeas, and a Touch of Honey
Still life with hand and red bell pepper, Pablo Secca Recipe below: Fettuccine with Red Pepper Purée, Chickpeas, and a Touch of Honey While thinking up ideas for Pasta Improvvisata, my first book, I...
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Women with Fish
My great aunt Gina with her collection of fishing tackle. Recipe below: Sole à la Bordelaise with White Truffles, by Sister Angelica This is my mother’s aunt Regina. My great aunt. Quite cute, I think....
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Late Night: Orecchiette with Swordfish, Black Olives, Orange, and Arugula
Recipe below: Orecchiette with Swordfish, Black Olives, Orange, and Arugula Anna Magnani, my favorite Italian film star, loved to invite her famous friends over to her place in Rome and cook pasta for...
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Torta di Funghi
Still Life with Mushrooms, by Sam Dalby. Recipe below: Torta di Funghi I don’t cook with mushrooms as much as I should. The inspiration is not strong, the way it is with, say, eggplants. I’m not sure...
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Thanksgiving on My Mind, and a Recipe for Pears Poached with Star Anise,...
Still Life with Pears, by Vincent Van Gogh. Recipe below: Pears Poached with Star Anise, Vanilla, and Rosé Wine Due to forces beyond my control, I’m not cooking Thanksgiving dinner this year. I’ll miss...
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Fennel and Orange Salad with Bottarga and Mint
Recipe below: Fennel and Orange Salad With Bottarga and Mint I am more a voracious cook than a voracious eater. I do love to eat, and I will eat just about anything, but it’s the sweat, mental...
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Christmas Eve Zuppa di Pesce with Friselle
Still Life with Shrimp, by Luciano Freire (1864-1935). Recipe below: Zuppa di Pesce with Friselle Having my mother die a month before Christmas is proving to be, as expected, a strange ride. I’m...
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Olive Oil Polenta Cake for a Snow Day
Recipe below: Polenta Cake with Olive Oil and Orange Flower Water Snow day bake-off. It’s a strong urge. Out my window snow whips by horizontally. I can barely see across the street. You don’t...
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Women with Fish
Formerly Known as Giant Squid heavy, deep and dark. louder, louder; the twofold pounding of clockwork respiration. thud, (thud-thud) goddess arms hang into the abyss, like dead weight. depth obscures,...
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Cornmeal-Crusted Skate with Brown Butter, Thyme, and Capers
Still Life with Skate, by James Ensor. Recipe below: Cornmeal-Crusted Skate with Brown Butter, Thyme, and Capers The skate is a strange, undulating creature. It looks and moves almost exactly like a...
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Braised Tuna and Artichokes with a Marjoram Pesto
Julia Child and Richard Olney relaxing in Provence. It’s February 1st. A dark day. Not as cold as it has been, but still cold, and damp now, too. Black puffy coats keep passing by my window. Seems like...
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My Amaro
It was about a year and a half ago, early in the fall, that I began thinking about making amaro. I had been drinking more of it than before. Bars were carrying a dozen brands, when previously if I...
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